The “PUMP UP” version will be used for LOW level alerts. The “PUMP DOWN” version will be used for HIGH level alerts. The second float acts as a fail-safe that also activates your sump pump or. Also as explained earlier, you have “PUMP DOWN” and “PUMP UP” versions. The Basement Watchdog Dual Float Switch has two floats for added reliability. No control switch will ever come with a plug, again because it will be wired directly to a control panel or alarm box. The main option you have is whether you want mercury or mechanical. This means they are very sensitive to changes in water level, which makes them great for high or low level alarms.ĭeciding which control switch to purchase is much easier. Narrow angle float switches on need to move 10 degrees to switch position. These switches are generally low amperage and what we call narrow angle. CONTROL DUTY FLOAT SWITCHESĬontrol switches are designed to connect to a control panel, mainly for high or low level alarms. While mercury switches are said to be more reliable, they are not allowed by law to be used in some states (see our website) and are only available in 13 amps. Mechanical switches have a ball bearing on a track that moves back and forth. Mercury switches use a small amount of mercury liquid to open and close the contacts. The last option that you have available is whether to use mercury or mechanical. This splice should be done in a control panel or waterproof junction box to ensure that the connection does not get wet and cause a short. Floats are all two wire so to install on a pump you must splice the float switch in the “HOT” line coming from the power source. Pump switches without a piggy-back plug must be hard wired, and this gets a little more complicated. That is all there to it, your pump will only come on when the float is in position to allow it. The plug on the float switch will plug-in to a power outlet, and then the pump will plug into the piggy-back outlet on the back of the float. If you purchase a float switch with a piggy-back plug the installation is very simple. Our float switches come either with a piggy-back plug or without a plug. Once you determine which amperage float you need for you application a decision will need to be made about how this float will be installed. Our most popular floats come in the following levels: 13 amps, 15 amps, and 25 amps. Since the power for the submersible pump will be flowing through the float switch it will need to be able to at minimum handle that amperage. When choosing a float switch to control the operation of a pump, the first question that needs to be answered is about amperage. This is needed when controlling a pump because you have to be able to pump out a range of water and it also keeps the float from being interrupted by turbulence in the water. These are generally are wide angle which means they have to move 90 degrees to switch to the “ON” or “OFF” position. They can handle higher amperages than control switches. Pump switches are designed to control the operation of a submersible pump. I wonder if the old Meyers is, like, 90 "people years" old, and so I will spend $199 on a Rigid, 1/2 hp spetic pump with one float.CHOOSING THE CORRECT SEPTIC TANK FLOAT SWITCH PUMP DUTY FLOAT SWITCHES I briefly run them dry, here inside,Īnd the newer 1/3 hp Rigid sounds full, but the 10-year old Meyers septic pump doea spin, but sounds no stronger than let's say a refrigerator motor. I have a 1/3hp Rigid also inside next to it, and:ĭo all pumps have a strong, full, low-tone sound that even pleasingly humms on the wooden floor inside. I say this because the old Meyers pump sounds thin or wimpy- and has the cracked float. Unless someone strongly advises against that. The sound, though, of this old Meyer pump (probably 1/2 hp) is "thin."īasically, I will go to HD (box store) in the city (Bangor, Maine), and buy their septic pump for $199. Everything is insdie the "mud room" here. It is a Meyers pump that has the cracked float nad sounds weak. What should I do? Options? Please help with thoughts. I get by each other day by emptying the little tank with an ordinary submersable pump lowered in for 10 minutes, and hosed out to the side of the yard. But what does that even mean to "sound" a little bit weak." However, the plastic, float housing is cracked just a little, and beside that the pump just sounds a little bit weak. Today I am dumb struck as the float seems to triggring correctly. (it is 16 gerees out.) I swore yesterday that the float switch (if I wired it correctly) was reversed and working opposite. That pipe goes about 2 feet to a much smaller tank- which I can just about stand up in- if I have pumped out it of its "water" (effluent.) Past the mentioned baffle wall is the next outlet. The pump in the chain is to pump effluent upward to the very front yard's leach field. All of those are on the larger, 1000 gal tank, which has a baffle wall on the far end from its inlet pipe, nad all of which is downward from the home itself. It is a sewage pump or actually, an effluent pump.
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